pope!

Well tody was the last - but certainly not least memora ble day of our trip. We managed to fit a LOT into just one day. We got up bright and early and went straight to the forum. I was perplexed because Rick Steves said his "forum walk" was free - but we couldn't figure out how to do it without the $12 entrance fee. But that aside we walked all around the ruins of ancient rome - the coliseum, forum, original caesars palace and all of that. A lot of walking on uneven ground, a lot of steps, etc. But cool stuff. Then we took a taxi - and when I asked the cabbie how much it would cost he looked at me like I was nuts and pointed to the meter... At least he was an honest cabbie- to the vatican museum - where they were closing the entrance at 1:00 - well it was 12:20 and there was a long line but we stayed optimistic and made it in with jus five minutes to spare. We did a full walk through in about an hour and a half - I of course loved the egyptian stuff amd the 2 real mummified remains! Found the sistene chapel pretty but somehow underwhelming after all the churches, frescas, paintings, etc that we had seen by this point and all the buildup to it. But it was very pretty. We debated the symbolism in the famous painting - asa, remind me to ask you about this when I get back, but I'm convinced that God inside the brain means that effectively Adam created the idea of God in his brain, that god is an invention of man and not the other way around. But cindy said that's not how it is generally interpreted.

Anyway after that we wanted to go to st peter's bascilica - but were told it wouldn't be open till 4:30. But what we weren't told was that the POPE was going to be giving a special mass to usher in the new year, at 6. But we were surprised to see the huge line (normally there is a huge line for the museum to buy tickets, but st peter's is free and usually not hard to get into. But the line moved fast and by the time we got in we definitely got the sense something was going on as people with some sort of tickets were allowed in to the seats. We soon figured out that the pope would be speaking. Now, Cindy hates this new pope, but here we were at the Vatican and the pope was going to lead mass. How could we NOT stick aound to see this?? So we did, standing right behind the seats, trying to get a glimpse, as for the first half of it he was hidden off to the side so you could really only hear him; then when he came out everyone was standing up and standing on the chairs even though cindy said that at that part of mass you're supposed to sit and they were all bad catholics. Anyway we got a few shots of the hard to see papal one, but the story came out of it anyway. We left when our feet just wouldn't let us take it anymore and took another honest cab back to our hotel, where we added a few layers (I think I could solve all my body temperature issues if I just used those toe-warmers every day!) And went out for CHINESE FOOD - which tasted so good since the bottom line is we really don't LIKE Italian food all that much. Happy tummies full, we headed back to our hotel to celebrate new years eve our favorite way - in our pj's. Here's hoping our flights go smoothly tomorrow. We've had a great trip but are ready to be back home with the cats, and back in our own bed. Personally I miss the rest of my wardrobe, and being able to go outside without 100 layers. Happy New Year everyone!

when in rome...

Well, so much for internet - it's not working here tonight which is probably just as well sice it saves us like $12 and we'll be home day after tomorrow anyway and you'll get the rest of the photos then. Sorry, by the way, for all the typos in these blackberry entries; it's not so easy to type this much on a phone, especially when tired. But anyway, here we are in Rome! This morning I fought with the vaporetto ticket man who really didn't want to give me change of a 20 (7 euros) and kept asking if I had 3 euros even though I told him I didn't have the change. I seriously thought he was going to make me come back when I had change but finally he gave in and gave me the change. Sorta set the tone for the day...
...Anyway we took the vaporetto (which by the way we took 4 of these and no one checked tickets on any of them) back to the train station where we took a nice high speed train to rome where we finally got a private set of 2 seats by the window by themselves so we didn't have to worry about sitting with strangers. Very pleasing. It was a very nice train and we even got to sit down and eat a formal (overpriced) lunch in the dining car which was very salty and in my opinion, made by chef boyardee. But it was still a fun experience sitting in this fancy car eating a meal watching italy fly by outside the window.
After our nice ride we reached Rome and saw a totally different part of the rome train station. I have no idea where we were the first time we came here - but this time we saw the real train station which at least made a little more sense than what we saw last time. Armed with my Rick Steves book I knew all about shady cab drivers and scams. But we were at the official cab stand and the cab had an official Taxi sign and a number, so it was a real cab and we got in. But real cabs can scam too. I saw that the meter wasn't running and told him so. He said "no meter. 20 euros.". I knew we were getting screwed here, but we were already in the cab. I looked for the list of rates and the phone number like Rick Steves said to do but didn't see either and got the sinking feeling that we had somehow fallen into a trap. Rick, if you're out there somewhere... What do you do in that situation? Anyway 20 euros later we made it to our hotel, which was in a great area, but we had a few problems. As I'm checking in the guy took his time and was futzinmg over what kind of room I had booked. I saw him change my room number on the card holder and wondered what that was about. And he wouldn't tell me the room number or hand us the key; instead he gave it directly to his "colleague" the bellman to take us there. Fine. Whatever. We get to our "room" whuch I out on quotes because it's literally a long narrow hallway with 2 single beds, one behind the other. On top of the bed situation it was weird and creepy and bad feng shui and I called and complained that my confirmation said a queen bed, which it did - and they moved us to the old room that we should have had to begin with - clearly they thought they could get away with giving us a crappy room assumong we were singles in case someone else (a "couple") came in or something. Anwyay we were able to switch and had to wait forever for the bellman to come back and move us to the right room. All a bit unnerving but in the end it was all straightened out and we got a perfectly fine room, and we set out to explore Rome. We're only here one full day so we wanted to maximize the extra night we had, and we did. I was totally overwhelmed at first. It is a huge city, rivalling new york, so many people, a little scary, insane drivers, intimidating, stunning, everything all at once, hard to take in, breathtaking... I can't believe Lindsey lived here for a semester! Braver than country mouse me! Anyway we got our bearings, dodged maniac taxis and went first to the Pantheon which we had time to hit before it closed. Very pretty. Lots of people. Then from there we walked to the piazza navona (sp?) which was almost like a carnival around bernini fountains. Booths with games and food and trinkets. We bought some little witches from this italian girl who explained the whole tradition to us (she's like santa claus; comes down the chimney between jan 5th and 6th and brings candy to the kids.) We listened to a very good street musician play Springsteen ("river," for those who care), dire straits, and other classic rock, and while we were there we ate at a rick steves approved restaurant with the famous chocolate tartufo - and finally got good gelato! After a good meal we headed for the trevi fountain. Very beautifuk and great to see at night. Still tons of people- and it was nice to be in a place that doesn't shut down at night. I can only imagine it is wall to wall poeople during the day.a little scary but fun. Back in the room, and ready for the vatican tomorrow!

ghettout of here

Sorry for the lack of pics - this is our last night in venice, so hopefully in rome tomorrow I willhave some decent internet access and won't have to type this all on the bberry, etc. This morning we took a vaporetto to murano, famous for its glass - mom, have you been? You would have loved it. The glass museum even had a step by step guide to how glass is made (you know, take sand and ash, put it in.a furnace...) Anyway we browsed numerous stores and bought a few things and went to the museum which wasn't all that impressive but we had gotten a museum pass which let us in free so what the heck. We really enjoued murano, despite obnoxious salespeople ("that room is closed... Unless you want to buy something".

Then we took another vaporetto to the jewish ghetto - the first of its kind and where the term "ghetto" originated. Wasn't really a lot to see here, though we did briefly stop in at the jewish museum. Small bit informative. We meandered our way, getting lost (and gettting yelled at by an Italian mailman trying (I think) to tell us we we're going the wring way...
Anyway after walking all the way back from there,we needed a break so we relaxed in our hotel for a bit before heading for san zaccaria (open this time). Saw the fascinatig crypts. We ate at another yummy trattoria - came back- and now we are about read to pass out so ill go for now. More with an internet connec tomorrow

layers are good

Sorry again no internet here so have to do the update on bberry. No pics :( but Venice is a wonderful, beautiful city and my favorite part of italy from what I've seen. Though I wish I could have seen it in the spring or summer since it's hard to get the full enjoyment of ambling around when you're covered in 16 layers of clothing just trying to stay warm. It is cold and the water makes it even colder. I don't think we'll even be able to take a gondola ride cause it would likely be colder than the sleigh ride!! Anyway today we went to the Doge's Palace which also houses the Bridge of Sighs and the prison. Beautiful amazing architecture. Then we walked around San Marco,saw the Basilica which is really almost indescribable. We did some shopping, and bought ourselves an exquisite mask to hang on the wall at home, and really enjoyed perusing the selection. We took a hot chocolate break at a cafe and then came back to the hotel so cindy could add a few more layers... Yes, I think she was even colder than I was. Anyway after a little break we ventured out intending to go to san zaccaria and the crypts but it was closed despite the fact that we went precisely during the very specific and random hours it was supposed to be open (4 to 6 pm). So instead we ambled around, shopping and exploring side streets as much as we could, until we settled at a nice (and quite reasonably priced) trattoria for an early dinner. Stopped for gelato on the way back to the room and somehow I wound up with freaking LEMON again. I swear next time it's gonna be chocolate or vanilla. No more experimenting for me!

Anyway we are back in the room now, watching the news in Italian, and getting ready for another full day here tomorrow!